Counter flashing
Cap flashing is cut into the masonry so it overlaps the step flashing.
A roofer in Orange can stop most chimney leaks by replacing the flashing where the chimney meets the roof: step flashing along the sides, counter flashing cut into the mortar, an apron at the front and a back pan or cricket behind, so the leak does not come back next season. Dial (973) 858-1825 to talk with a local roofer about the chimney leak.
The joint between a chimney and the roof is one of the most leak-prone spots on any house. Because the chimney and the roof are separate structures, the flashing has to bridge a joint that never stops moving. Any flashing that is rigidly glued to both the brick and the roof tends to crack loose within a few years.
A correctly flashed chimney uses a system, not a single piece. Along the front sits a one-piece apron, step pieces run up each side with the shingles, a saddle or cricket diverts water behind, and counter flashing ground into the mortar covers the top edges. Counter flashing is the piece that most often fails or is skipped, replaced by surface-mounted metal and a bead of caulk.
Not every leak around a chimney is a flashing leak. Brick and mortar absorb rain, and a cracked crown or open joints can let water travel down through the masonry to the roof line. Sorting out which one is leaking avoids paying for the wrong repair.
Many chimney flashing repair calls in Orange also turn up a need for flashing repair or roof leak repair.
Looking for Orange chimney flashing repair? Call (973) 858-1825 and describe the problem to a roofer who works in Orange.
Call nowThe work follows the path water takes, front to back.
The roofer looks at the flashing on all four sides, the mortar joints, the crown and cap and the attic framing around the chimney. That separates true flashing leaks from water coming through the chimney itself.
Old flashing and sealant come off, and the shingles next to the brick are lifted or removed. Rotted sheathing next to the chimney is cut out and renewed.
A membrane underlayment goes around the chimney, then the front apron and the side step flashing are installed with the shingles. The step flashing is nailed to the roof deck only, never to the brick.
Behind the chimney, a metal back pan or a framed cricket keeps water and debris from piling up. Without one, a wide chimney acts like a dam.
Counter flashing is let into a ground-out mortar joint and sealed, overlapping the base flashing below. Set into the brick, it lasts far longer than metal glued to the face.
Cap flashing is cut into the masonry so it overlaps the step flashing.
A cricket is framed behind wide chimneys so water cannot pond against the brick.
Rotted decking around the chimney opening is replaced so the shingles have solid nailing.
The front of the chimney gets a new apron with counter flashing over it.
Step pieces up both sides of the chimney are replaced lapped so water runs downhill.
Replacing the flashing outright is the better choice when patches keep failing or the metal has corroded. When the basic design is wrong, repairs only delay the next leak. Adding a cricket during replacement solves the uphill pooling at the same time.
Not every flashing metal suits brick. Lime in mortar corrodes bare aluminum, so copper, coated steel or coated aluminum are common choices. Ask which metal the roofer plans to use and why.
Chimney leak repair starts by finding out whether water comes through the flashing or through the chimney itself. Water that appears only in hard rain at the base points to flashing, while a slow leak that lingers after rain hints at soaked brick or a cracked crown. A careful water test, one side at a time, can tell the two apart.
When water comes through the chimney, the repair moves up above the roof. Typical fixes are crown repair, a new cap and repointing of open mortar joints, sometimes followed by a vapor-permeable masonry water repellent. The roofer can spot many of these from the roof and tell you who should fix them.
Around Orange, chimney leaks often date back to a reroof where the old chimney flashing was reused or covered in sealant. Across Orange and nearby communities including East Orange, Glen Ridge, Caldwell and Roseland, the chimney type decides the fix: masonry needs counter flashing cut into the brick, and a framed chase needs step flashing behind the siding, so expect the roofer to ask which type is on your house.
For chimney flashing repair in Orange, NJ or nearby towns like East Orange, Glen Ridge, Caldwell and Roseland, call (973) 858-1825 to reach a roofer who covers your street.
Cold winters bring snow, ice and a long stretch of freezing nights. Heat escaping from the attic melts snow on the upper roof, and the water refreezes at the colder eaves, which is how ice dams form and back water up under the shingles. Coastal storms and heavy spring rain drive water sideways into flashing, valleys and old chimneys. That is why roof repair in Orange is busiest after a hard winter and before the next one.
Small roof problems caught early usually stay small repairs.
Roofers in Orange know the roof types and weather wear common in local homes.
Ask your questions before you agree to anything.
More questions? Call (973) 858-1825
Flashing repairs at the joints where most roof leaks start, so water runs onto the shingles instead of into the wall.
Learn moreFinding where water gets through the roof and sealing it at the source, with the damage underneath checked too.
Learn morePinpointing where water actually enters a roof, even when the stain is far away, so the repair goes in the right place the first time.
Learn moreSpot repairs for wind, hail and age damage on an asphalt shingle roof, without tearing off the whole roof.
Learn moreLooking for something else?
See all roofing servicesCall now for Orange chimney flashing repair and help in the towns around it.