Cap flashing
Loose counter flashing is secured without relying on caulk alone.
Most leaks at walls, dormers and roof edges in Orange come down to flashing, and a roofer can fix it by replacing the failed metal rather than caulking over it, with the wall sheathing checked for hidden rot. One call to (973) 858-1825 reaches a nearby roofer who repairs flashing.
Wherever a roof meets a wall, a dormer, a skylight, a valley or an edge, it relies on flashing to keep water out. The main types are step flashing at sidewalls, apron flashing at headwalls, counter flashing over the top, kickouts at the bottom of walls, valley metal and drip edge at the edges. Each of those pieces has one job, and when it fails, water finds the gap.
Flashing problems often hide inside the wall rather than on the ceiling. Without a kickout, roof runoff dumps against the siding where the wall meets the eave, soaking the sheathing and framing below it. By the time it is visible, the repair may include some siding and wall sheathing too.
Caulk is not flashing. Sealant can hold for a while, but it fails sooner or later, and the joint leaks once more. Proper flashing sheds water by gravity and lapping, so it keeps working even after any sealant ages.
Flashing Repair is often paired with chimney flashing repair and roof leak repair, depending on the cause.
Looking for Orange flashing repair? Call (973) 858-1825 to talk to a local roofer.
Call nowGood flashing work is mostly about the order things overlap.
The roofer checks the joint from the roof and the attic, looking for missing pieces, rust, face nails and caulk hiding a gap. Probing the wall below shows whether water has reached the sheathing.
Siding is lifted or removed along the joint so the old flashing and housewrap can be reached. Working the new pieces in correctly depends on access behind the siding.
New step flashing is installed one piece per shingle course, each lapping the one below, with a kickout diverter at the bottom. Fasteners go into the roof deck only, never through the vertical leg into the wall.
Housewrap is lapped over the vertical legs, then siding goes back on with a gap above the shingles so it does not wick water. Siding pressed tight to the shingles stays wet and rots.
Drip edge along eaves and rakes is checked and replaced where it is bent or missing, lapped correctly with the underlayment. Correct laps at the edges keep water out of the fascia and soffit.
Loose counter flashing is secured without relying on caulk alone.
Apron flashing where a roof slope meets a wall above is renewed and covered by the siding or counter flashing.
Kickouts are fitted at the bottom of roof-to-wall joints so runoff stops soaking the siding.
Step pieces along walls and dormer cheeks are replaced and woven with new shingles.
Bent or missing drip edge is replaced at eaves and rakes so water drips clear of the fascia.
Flashing repairs can be small or involved, depending on how long water has been getting in. A lifted counter flashing on a masonry wall may only need resetting into the mortar joint, while a leaking sidewall usually means new step flashing, new shingles along the wall and some siding work. The roofer should explain which applies before work begins.
The metal used should suit the house. Copper, galvanized steel and aluminum all show up on roofs, and each has spots where it works best. Mixing copper with aluminum or galvanized metal in contact can cause corrosion, so the roofer matches the metal to what is already there.
A valley is where two roof slopes meet, and it channels a large share of the roof water toward the eave. In an open valley, a band of metal stays exposed down the center, while in a closed or woven valley the shingles cover the valley and the underlayment beneath does the heavy lifting. Both need ice and water shield underneath, centered in the valley.
Valley leaks often come from debris, worn shingles or nails driven too close to the center. Shingle corners cut square instead of clipped at the top can also steer water sideways under the valley shingles. A valley that leaks is generally rebuilt rather than patched.
Flashing repairs in Orange are common on houses with dormers, additions and second-story walls rising above lower roofs. Homes in Orange and nearby towns like East Orange, Glen Ridge, Caldwell and Roseland range from older houses with aging galvanized flashing and no kickouts to newer homes with complex rooflines that rely on many wall joints, and each of those joints is a place worth checking.
Need flashing repair around Orange? Call (973) 858-1825 for an Orange roofer who serves the towns around it too.
Cold winters bring snow, ice and a long stretch of freezing nights. Heat escaping from the attic melts snow on the upper roof, and the water refreezes at the colder eaves, building ice dams that push water up under the shingles. Strong coastal storms push rain into every weak spot at the flashing and valleys. Most homeowners in Orange, NJ have the roof checked in the fall and again after the snow melts.
Small roof problems caught early usually stay small repairs.
Local roofers see the same roofs and storm damage across Orange and nearby towns.
Ask the roofer about the cause, the options and the estimate before work starts.
More questions? Call (973) 858-1825
Fixing leaks around the chimney with new flashing set into the mortar joints, instead of another coat of tar.
Learn moreFinding where water gets through the roof and sealing it at the source, with the damage underneath checked too.
Learn moreFixing leaking, fogged or cracked skylights and the flashing around them, without replacing a unit that can still be saved.
Learn moreRepairing cracked pipe boots, broken box vents, loose ridge vents, seized turbines and exhaust hoods, so every opening in the roof stays sealed.
Learn moreLooking for something else?
See all roofing servicesCall (973) 858-1825 for a local roofer in Orange and nearby towns.